Alcolog

The old saying goes, “What’s in a name,” but when it comes to Tequila, the question really should be: “What’s in a NOM?” NOM, which is an acronym for “Normas Oficial Mexicana”, is a set of obligatory regulations to ensure Mexico’s emblematic products meet certain expectations. And one of Mexico’s most emblematic products is its Tequila. The Normas standardizing Tequila production were first introduced in 1974, with the latest update coming in 2006. The Normas cover all areas of production, from the cultivation of the agave to the packaging requirements. The Normas for Tequila is the major reason why I claim that Tequila is one of the most regulated drinks in the world.

But why does it matter? Sure, there can be some bad Tequila, but that can be avoided by paying attention to the label. In fact, you can learn a lot from the labels because of the Normas. If the Tequila isn’t made from 100% agave, the label needs to say it’s a “mixto”. Likewise if it’s unaged Tequila with color added, it needs to be labeled an “oro”. Not that these are bad, but if you’ve only had mixto, then there are much higher quality Tequilas to be had.

The most important part of the NOM for Tequila is the requirement that every bottle of Tequila will have a registration number and the name of the distillery. While it’s rare that a single malt Scotch will have a name other than the distillery, this is the most common feature of Tequila. The oft quoted statistic is that there are over 700 brands of Tequila, but less than 150 distilleries. Do you like Herradura? El Jimador is made at the same distillery, though nowadays it’s a mixto. Don Eduardo is also produced there, though this is a recent change as it used to be produced by El Mejor. Confusing, isn’t it? Generally speaking, the distillery’s flagship will bear the same name as the distillery, while the secondary brands and ones produced on contract will have a different name or a generic distillery name.

There are a number of large and reputable brands who are distilled on contract. Cabo Wabo, for example, does not own a distillery. Until a few years ago Patron didn’t either. Casa Noble switches its distilleries from time to time without losing too much in the way of quality. Industry consolidation contributes to this as well, when Brown-Forman bought Casa Herradura it made more sense to have its second Tequila brand, Don Eduardo, made in their facility. So if you notice your favorite Tequila has chaged a little since the last time you had it, it might be because they changed distilleries.

So if you’re a fan of Tequila, especially a specific Tequila, it pays to pay attention to the label. You might be surprised and happy to find that there are siblings that you enjoy just as much.

No, this isn't about proof, it's more about something with little proof at all. This may come as a shock to some people, but much of what we drink is driven by marketing. People generally need a better reason than "It's there" to try something new, so drinks firms will pay a lot of money to convince people that they need to buy something. One way they do this is classify something as being a "Premium" spirit.

Around Minnesota, Premium means something entirely different - but to the general population it's implied to be better than your average product. In gasoline, it's assumed that premium fuel is better than regular so people will pay more for it. The reality is that you buy the minimum octane for your car because anything higher than that is unnecessary. A similar analogy can be said for premium spirits: There's no need to use a premium spirit in a cocktail that'll mask the flavor of the spirit.

But like any good marketing arms race, premium doesn't cut it anymore. Now we have an "ultra" or "super" premium spirits category. This is when there's too many "premium" brands in a sector and the company wants to charge more for something that's probably on par with any of the premium brands. Take the oft-maligned Trump vodka, the first ultra-premium vodka. The market effectively pushed it down into the premium vodka's price range. Now an ultra-premium vodka needs something more than a name... like filtering your spirit through crushed diamonds. Nevermind that diamonds are inert and activated charcoal's porosity is the reason it's used as a filter. It looks good on a label.

Calling a spirit "ultra-premium" means something different to me. It's a sign that an under served market has finally hit the big time. The introduction of Patron meant that Tequila had finally shed its "shooter and worm" persona and had the kind of respect given to Scotch and Bourbon. The market conditions that made Patron possible now means you can have Tequila bars, much like there are whiskey bars.

So that's why the coincidentally timed announcements of (rī)1 and Beefeater 24 means that both rye and gin have finally hit the big time. For (rī)1, it's a sign that bartenders are looking for a better rye to use in their classic mixed drinks. Of course Black Maple Hill has been selling ryes in the $40 range for years now, this is considered ultra-premium because it's better than Beam's yellow-label rye. Beefeater 24 is a different beast entirely, but still a welcome sign. This is the first major brand's gin that's meant for sipping. It's Pernod's reaction to the craft distillery movement that has embraced gin as something more creative than a race-to-the-bottom vodka. Granted, by these terms there have been ultra-premium gins on the market for years, but having a major brand seeking the sipping market means that gin should earn more respect from your everyday consumer.