The old saying goes, “What’s in a name,” but when it comes to Tequila, the question really should be: “What’s in a NOM?” NOM, which is an acronym for “Normas Oficial Mexicana”, is a set of obligatory regulations to ensure Mexico’s emblematic products meet certain expectations. And one of Mexico’s most emblematic products is its Tequila. The Normas standardizing Tequila production were first introduced in 1974, with the latest update coming in 2006. The Normas cover all areas of production, from the cultivation of the agave to the packaging requirements. The Normas for Tequila is the major reason why I claim that Tequila is one of the most regulated drinks in the world.
But why does it matter? Sure, there can be some bad Tequila, but that can be avoided by paying attention to the label. In fact, you can learn a lot from the labels because of the Normas. If the Tequila isn’t made from 100% agave, the label needs to say it’s a “mixto”. Likewise if it’s unaged Tequila with color added, it needs to be labeled an “oro”. Not that these are bad, but if you’ve only had mixto, then there are much higher quality Tequilas to be had.
The most important part of the NOM for Tequila is the requirement that every bottle of Tequila will have a registration number and the name of the distillery. While it’s rare that a single malt Scotch will have a name other than the distillery, this is the most common feature of Tequila. The oft quoted statistic is that there are over 700 brands of Tequila, but less than 150 distilleries. Do you like Herradura? El Jimador is made at the same distillery, though nowadays it’s a mixto. Don Eduardo is also produced there, though this is a recent change as it used to be produced by El Mejor. Confusing, isn’t it? Generally speaking, the distillery’s flagship will bear the same name as the distillery, while the secondary brands and ones produced on contract will have a different name or a generic distillery name.
There are a number of large and reputable brands who are distilled on contract. Cabo Wabo, for example, does not own a distillery. Until a few years ago Patron didn’t either. Casa Noble switches its distilleries from time to time without losing too much in the way of quality. Industry consolidation contributes to this as well, when Brown-Forman bought Casa Herradura it made more sense to have its second Tequila brand, Don Eduardo, made in their facility. So if you notice your favorite Tequila has chaged a little since the last time you had it, it might be because they changed distilleries.
So if you’re a fan of Tequila, especially a specific Tequila, it pays to pay attention to the label. You might be surprised and happy to find that there are siblings that you enjoy just as much.